we are leaving the second of two bars in a town that sits between mountains and desert.
Madge, a sharp 91 year old, comes to us from across the road and says we may as well have a drink if we're just standing outside, admiring her bar. we tell her we're heading back to our little town for the night with drinks all finished. she tells us a dozen times she needed to own a bar like she needed a hole in the head. but here we are. she looks at our little rental truck, ten me, and asks, 'is this your outfit?' and I cannot imagine any other way I will ever refer to a car again. she never left her town or good but has been all over the place, she says. Madge says she saved her bar before all its charm could be sold to californians 30 years ago. she says she owns two ranches, one here one in another small town where we're staying, and I get a pang of yearning with a deep knowing to hold it steady. she warns us one dozen times too to be very careful driving back, to watch for elk and deer. there aren't as many as there used to be, but they'll still ruin your night. sawtooths in the back, salmon river toward the front, and the sky pink with a solitary elk making way across the valley are held in the last moments of the day outside the truck window. the elk stays still as I watch her a while while she watches me. she and I get stuck in this watching of each other, and we're the only things left living. our outfit carries on and she heads to where she must need to go.